![]() ![]() female threaded 1/4-20 holes (9mm on center "Red" spacing) female threaded 3/8-16 hole (with Arri-style anti-rotation pin receivers) 3/8-16 captive mounting screw (with removable* Arri-style anti-rotation pins) 3/8-16 captive mounting screw (with retractible* Arri-style anti-rotation pins) Hard mount directly to the plate or cover with our custom cut Velcro and attach your AKS that way!Īvailable currently in seven different flavors, rest assured there's an Ecto Plate perfect for your application! Bolt your plate directly to the side back or top of the camera when mounting a small accessory box, or get creative and put Ecto Plate on the end of a Noga arm for a multitude of other uses.Įcto Plate AL & AL-RA also have a 3/8-16 (captive) mounting screw plus a bevy of 1/4-20 holes, 3/8-16 center hole (with Arri anti-rotation pin receivers), and several 1/4" pass-through channels. Just back out the pins with a standard 1.5mm allen wrench and Ecto Plate mounts flush on any top handle, cage, or cheese-plate.Įcto Plate CF comes with 3/8-16 (captive) and 1/4-20 mounting screws as well as two female 1/4-20 holes. Retractable/removable Arri-style anti-rotation pins allow quick and secure mounting that won't sag or wiggle loose. Made from carbon fiber and aircraft-grade aluminum, Ecto Plate is lightweight but sturdy. Available in 2"x4" and 3"x3" Ecto Plate offers an easy way to quickly and cleanly add just a few inches of precious flat mounting space to your build. Have a few practice runs - you will soon get the "hang" of it.Ecto Plate is a simple, flexible, versatile solution for mounting accessories on your cinema camera rig. The flat-bottom drill is only doing the same job as a more expensive milling cutter anyway. Do set the depth guage on the drill/mill just leave the drill "hard down" on the stop and let it finally clean it out - and voilà - counter-bore done. Slow the drill down and fit the flat-bottom/ed drill, use plenty of cutting/tapping oil and just feed slowly and "peck" the cone out. So if say you were to drill a 1/4" hole and a 1/2" counter-bore, just drill the 1/4" hole as normal, follow it with a 3/8" and 1/2" normal drills so that all you had to do with the flat-bottom/ed drill was to "clean up/out" the "cone" from the 3/8" and 1/2" drills. Grind the now "flat/square" drill end so that you have minimal (say 5 to 10 degrees) of "front clearance". Just grind the end of the drill "square" - as if you were "facing off" a rod in the lathe. Make it from an old/existing drill of the required size - the shorter the better as it works better if "stiffer" and less flexible than a new/ish drill. It is quite possible and normal - and functional - to make and use a flat-bottom/ed drill. I realize that a counter bore might be used in some applications but if they make end mills that can be plunged, what are they called and where can they be purchased. I need holes to be flat on the bottom or otherwise I would use a drill. I'm sure they make them (they seem to make everything else), but I would like to purchase several end mills that can be plunged into metal, e.g., 1/2 inch deep, or be plunged into a smaller existing hole. Should I post separate threads to address my three projects since you've answered my question about end mills that can be plunged or can talk on the three projects be continued in this thread? The most pressing project is the 1" dia blind hole with a flat bottom. ![]() these are my needs hence my reasons for posing the initial question of plunging an end mill. The material for this project is aluminum. The third project involves creating a blind hole 1" in dia to a depth of 1" and the bottom of the hole must be flat and square with the hole's vertical wall. Because it was not "center cutting" it ceased to cut when coming to rest on the non-cutting area of the end mill. I attempted to use a 4 flute cutter to counter bore a hole and it worked well for only a short distance. The second project resembles Willy's project. Flats on the hex head are damaged from oxidation so I thought I would remove the hex head screw by carefully plunging an end mill to depth of the original shoulder hoping to preserve the "flat" on which the hex head rest and worry about the remaining stub once the rotary top had been removed. I need to remove the top of the rotary table for cleanup purposes and one hex head screw is so badly oxidized that it can't be removed. The first and less pressing project involves a badly corroded hex screw in the top of a 10" rotary table. ![]() I am working on three unrelated projects all needing flat bottom holes or shoulders. SmokeDaddy has also posted a link that demonstrated a similar need. Willy has posted a picture of a mounting plate that pretty much demonstrates what I need to do with regard to plunging. ![]()
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